In the language of textiles, tiny details matter—right down to the way yarns are twisted. If you know how to look closely, you can spot authenticity in fabric. One of those details: the direction of yarn twist—commonly referred to as S-twist and Z-twist. For genuine hand-spun Khadi, understanding this allows you to verify craftsmanship.
What does S or Z twist mean?
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S-twist yarn: When held vertically, the fibers incline in the direction of the middle stroke of the letter “S” (leftwards).
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Z-twist yarn: Fibers incline like the stroke of the letter “Z” (rightwards).
In many machine-spun/mill yarns, a Z-twist direction is common; some hand-spun traditions favour S-twist singles. For Khadi authenticity purposes, S-twist (or the appropriate regional spinning twist) signals craft intent.
Why this matters for Khadi
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Yarn twist affects how yarn behaves under tension, how it weaves into fabric, how it drapes, and how it ages.
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Hand-spun yarns typically show variation, natural twist, and fibre alignment that reflect human skill—not machine uniformity.
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When you hold a yarn end and check the direction of spiral under magnification, the twist direction gives you a clue: is this mass-processed or hand-crafted?
How to perform the test (practical steps)
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Pull out a small end of yarn from fabric edge or seam.
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Hold it vertically near your eye or under magnification. Observe the slant of the fibers. If slant is “/” (to the right), that’s a Z-twist; if “\” (to the left), that’s S-twist.
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Combine this with other cues (seed flecks, irregular weave, fabric feel) to assess authenticity.
Limitations & region-specific notes
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Twist direction alone is not definitive proof of Khadi—but when combined with other markers (seed flecks, weave irregularities, off-white tone, provenance), it becomes a robust indicator.
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Regional spinning traditions differ—some use Z-twist or different plied constructs—so empty claims of “S twist = Khadi” must be considered in context.
Conclusion
Knowing the difference between S-twist and Z-twist yarns is a craft-aware buyer’s tool. When you choose fabric from White Kailash, you're buying more than cloth—you’re buying yarn spun by hand, twist by twist, story by story.
Because true luxury starts in the twist of the thread.