In an era where “Khadi” labels are loosely used, knowing how to see the truth in the thread is invaluable. The Magnifying Glass Test—a simple yet powerful method—reveals whether a fabric is truly handspun and handwoven, or merely an industrial imitation marketed under the same name.
At White Kailash, we encourage conscious luxury. And that begins with understanding what makes Khadi real — not just by touch, but by microscopic evidence.
1. Understanding the Science of Handspun Yarn
Authentic Khadi is defined as:
“Fabric made from handspun yarn and handwoven on a handloom.” — Khadi & Village Industries Commission (KVIC)
When cotton is spun by hand on a charkha, the resulting yarn is naturally irregular — in diameter, twist tension, and fibre alignment. This variation is invisible to the naked eye, but becomes distinctly visible under magnification.
In contrast, mill-spun yarns—used in powerloom “Khadi”—are highly uniform, precisely twisted (usually Z-twist), and chemically processed for consistency.
2. The Equipment
You don’t need a laboratory to test your Khadi — just a 10x–20x magnifying glass (a jeweller’s loupe works best). Under magnification, authentic Khadi reveals its character through texture, twist, and impurities.
Recommended tools:
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10x or 20x jeweller’s loupe
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Bright natural or LED light source
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White background (ivory paper or neutral table)
3. Step-by-Step: The Magnifying Glass Test
Step 1: Observe the Yarn Surface
Hold the fabric flat and bring your loupe close to the yarn strands.
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Handspun Khadi → Irregular thickness along the yarn. You’ll notice micro-variations where the fibre thickens and thins.
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Mill-spun fabric → The yarn appears smooth, cylindrical, and consistent throughout.
This irregularity in handspun Khadi allows microscopic air pockets, giving it superior breathability and natural cooling properties.
Step 2: Check the Twist Pattern (S vs Z)
Under magnification, observe the diagonal lines formed by the yarn’s twist.
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S-twist (leans left) → Typical of handspun single yarns; fibres twist in the direction of the letter “S.”
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Z-twist (leans right) → Common in mill-spun yarns produced mechanically.
Why this matters:
Twist direction influences the drape, strength, and sheen of the fabric. Most traditional Khadi yarns—especially handspun cotton from Gujarat, Rajasthan, and Bengal—show S-twist singles or Z-plied hand joins.
Step 3: Identify Natural Impurities
Authentic Khadi retains tiny black or brown specks — remnants of cotton seeds and husk. These are not flaws; they’re proof that the yarn was hand-cleaned and spun without industrial combing or bleaching.
Under a magnifier, you’ll see these as minute organic dots embedded in the yarn.
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Their presence = proof of purity.
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Their absence = sign of over-processed or bleached yarns.
Step 4: Examine the Weave Tension
Move the magnifier along the fabric grid. In handwoven Khadi, you’ll notice:
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Slightly uneven intersections between warp and weft threads.
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Small, almost imperceptible “micro-gaps” that let light through.
In contrast, powerloom fabric exhibits:
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Mechanically perfect intersections.
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Tight, grid-like uniformity with no natural air channels.
Result: Handwoven Khadi breathes, drapes, and regulates temperature better — scientifically proven by its lower cover factor and higher air permeability compared to powerloom cloth (source: Fibre2Fashion Textile Studies).
4. Interpreting the Findings
| Observation | Authentic Handspun Khadi | Powerloom / Mill Khadi |
|---|---|---|
| Yarn Thickness | Irregular, organic | Uniform |
| Twist Direction | Often S-twist singles | Mostly Z-twist |
| Impurities | Present (seed specks) | Absent |
| Weave Tension | Slightly uneven | Mechanically perfect |
| Feel & Breathability | Soft, porous, alive | Flat, dense, inert |
5. Why This Matters — Beyond Authenticity
The Magnifying Glass Test isn’t just about validation. It’s about reclaiming trust in handmade craft and valuing the artisans whose livelihoods depend on genuine Khadi.
Each irregular fibre you see under magnification tells a story — of rural hands at the charkha, of looms humming slowly in sunlit workshops, and of a sustainable rhythm that no machine can replicate.
When you choose handspun Khadi, you’re not buying cloth.
You’re preserving craft lineage, eco-conscious production, and human touch — all in one thread.